Travel25 Apr 2008 04:06 pm

Thanks God for Pepsi! I know I am supposed to be immersing myself in this Indian cultural experience, but really, thank God for ice cold Pepsi!

Roadside shop in Tiruvannamalai.

It’s as hot as hell here in India, and when the water you carry around with you in a bottle heats up to a temprature that might make for a nice cup of tea, I have to tell you that a cold Pepsi is just bliss, seriously BLISS!!

I lasted a good few days eating South Indian food and drinking water (or water with a little fresh squeezed lemon) and hot milky sugar saturated tea, but my western taste buds were yearning for something familiar, something refreshing.

After having a bottle of ice cold Pepsi over dinner one night, I was so happy that on the way back home I stopped at one of the many roadside shops to get a big 2 litre bottle of cold Pepsi which I drank that night as we watched the moon rise over Arunachala.

Just for the taste of it

Travel24 Apr 2008 03:41 pm

If you ever find yourself on the wild and crazy streets of Tiruvannamalai in Southern India maybe you’ll be looking for somewhere to eat. Allow me then to give you a restaurant recommendation and point you in the direction of Srinivasa.

I’m not much of a food person which may mean either I am blessed or cursed. In the case of Srinivasa restaurant I’m not sure which of those categories I would fall into. Set behind the makeshift roadside food preparation area where the smell of the burning stove mingles with the smell of the traffic that frighteningly passes by only inches away, this small eatery is a terrifyingly dirty little hut that has all the charm of Thai prison combined with the ambiance of a bus stop.

Laxman and Joelle are regulars here, they assure me that the food, which is served on banana leaves, is entirely safe and among the best that Tiruvannamalai has to offer. This might ordinarily be reassuring had a a very large rat not just walked across the floor just inches away from my feet. “It’s a rabbit.” Laxman tells me with a wry smile as he catches the alarm on my face.

Sri Nivasa restaurant in Tiruvannamalai.

Dosa, a kind of Indian pancake, is served with a bucket of something hot and mildly curry flavored and accompanied by water in what look like prison issue metal cups. Like everywhere else there are no knives and forks, you wash your hands as you walk in then eat whatever is served with your right hand. For the budget conscious visitor this place is hard to beat as a meal for three including hot drinks will cost you no more than for 35 Rupees, which is less than one (US) dollar!

As we sit there eating and making conversation while I struggle to eat my meal with one hand, a man sat at the table across from us falls backward off his stool and lies unconscious on the floor. With no great haste the proprietor and a couple of others pick up the man and hold him in a more upright position on the floor. The other patrons look on for a few moments, before getting back to their meals. It turns out that the man who collapsed works there making the tea and coffee, and as soon as he regains consciousness he returns to work.

Srinivasa restaurant in Tiruvannamalai.

I would like to tell you that the poor state of the building, the tables and stools is all forgiven once you taste the fine south Indian cuisine on offer. Unfortunately though, I can’t. The food here is functional and somewhat boring, and I’m not known for being at all fussy about food. But if you fancy eating in a small room with soot lining the collapsing walls while rats run freely and staff collapse around you, the Srinivasa roadside eatery in Tiruvannamalai is very much the place for you. Enjoy!

[Video] Take a look inside Srinivasa
Tiruvannamalai
Dosa
Joelle’s travel blog and moblog
Laxman’s Flickr photo’s

Travel23 Apr 2008 03:13 pm

So, I’m in India! It was something of a last minute thing. My friend Joelle is currently living for a little while in Tamil Nadu and she invited me to go stay with her and her friend Laxman, a Dutch national who spends most of his time in India. So, here I am!

India

IndiaSo far my experience here in India has been very different to my last trip here. Joelle and Laxman life an ‘off-the-grid’ existence outside of a town called Tiruvannamalai which lies at the foot of a so-called holy mountain that seems to be home to tons of temples and spiritual gurus. Everywhere you go there are pictures of a guru called Ramana. He’s dead now, but evidently he was something of a big shot in the world of guruness (is that even a word?).

It’s hot here and, of course, there is no air conditioning. I’m sleeping in the house of one of Laxman’s neighbors in a bedroom which has large windows with no glass. There is a working light-bulb and even a shower in an outside shower-room. Cooking is done using a solar cooker or a gas stove, and water is pumped to the house and Laxman’s house is powered by a large battery which is charged via a solar panel. It might not be everyones cup of tea, but what it lacks in amenities is more than made up for by the hospitality of my hosts.

India

India

Despite having been to India before it’s still something of a culture shock to come here. The roads are packed with mopeds, cows, buses, auto-rickshaws, bicycles, trucks, and the occasional car. Anything with a horn is invariably sounding it and attempting to overtake someone else in a maneuver that would have them arrested and banned from driving back if they tried the same thing back in the UK. Beside the road are food stands, shacks, temples, and shops and the closer you get the the city the crazier it all gets.

This is no glossy brochure tourist trip, it’s India like India is. The meals we’ve eaten in what I will only loosely call restaurants, have all been served on banana leaves in smoke filled rooms that I wouldn’t be happy to keep my bike in back home, but this is adventure territory and I’m up for that.

India

About Tiruvannamalai
May first trip to India (Part 1)
My first trip to India (Part 2)
[Map] Where in the world is Tiruvannamalai

Photography and Travel16 Apr 2008 08:21 pm

My friend Phil and his wife, Kerry-anne, move to New Zealand next month so at the weekend, as both Phil and I were free, the two of us headed into Wales for what I suspect will be the last time he’ll see that country for a very long time. It was a fun day out, a “roof down day” in my MG, and a good opportunity to just kick back and have some fun. I took the camera along so you can share in at least a little of what we saw. (The pictures with a magnifying glass in the top right can be enlarged by clicking the picture.)

Saturday mornings are about getting up late so neither of us were in any hurry. At about 10:30 Philly called me to tell me he’d just got up, so I too hauled my lazy butt out of bed and got ready. We had agreed to meet up and take care of the most important thing before we embarked on our day trip… breakfast! The best place for a couple of ‘blokes’ to get a good English breakfast is the Shamrock Cafe. £4 will get you a plate with 2 fried eggs, beans, sausage and bacon with toast on the side and a cup of tea. The last time we were here together it was the morning of his wedding.

With breakfast (or brunch, or lunch as it pretty much was!) out of the way we headed down toward Owswestry, turning off the road toward Weston Rhyn to take a more interesting looking back road, a “wiggle road” as I’ve come to call them. The sun was shining and the roof was down, perfect!

Wales

The plan was we had no plan. It was a ‘seat-of-the-pants tour.’ We were just seeing where the road took us while at the same time watching some distant rain clouds. On the road that runs along the invisible line that separates England from Wales we made the first of what was many stops to get out of the car and just take in a view.

Wales

Wales

Wales

Wales

We decided to head to the now nearby Lake Vrynwy, (Welsh: Llyn Efyrnwy - pronounced [E]vurn-wee-). I’ve been there many times before, but Phil hadn’t so it seemed like as good a place as anywhere to get out for a stroll. Unfortunately the notoriously unpredictable British weather had other ideas and the rain clouds moved in just as we pulled up to park beside the lake. Undaunted though, we still got out and walked along the dam so as to enjoy a “cigar moment.” (Honey flavored I believe!)

Wales

The rain didn’t last long and oddly enough it seemed to bring out the colors of the moss covered trees and ground by the lake. We would drive a little way, see something and stop to get out and take a closer look, then drive a little further and see something else that made us stop again.

Wales

Wales

Wales

Traveling west from from Lake Vyrnwy we had to go over the foothills in Snowdonia national park. As we climbed the steep roads I began having fun driving through the puddles of meltwater, though I misjudged one puddle and because the roof was down both Phil and I got an unexpected shower, Phil especially as the puddle was on his side of the car.

There was still a little snow around so Phil decided this was a great opportunity to make a snowman! There wasn’t much snow, so this snowman was only a little guy, and a bit creepy looking to. I tried giving him hair, but even at his tender age he lost it very quickly (though he still had more hair than Phil!) After making the snowman we decided to run him over, so we placed him in the middle of the road then flattened him. We’re guys, that kind of thing is hard-wired into our brains!

Wales

Wales

Wales

Wales

Wales

Wales

Trying to chase the blue sky that hadn’t been extinguished by closing rain clouds we took the road to Carnarvon Castle. The brunch/lunch had word off by now and we were hungry so the plan was to get something to eat in Carnarvon and maybe watch the sunset on the Isle of Anglesey. However, after turning off the main roads to follow yet more ‘wiggle roads’ the clouds that we had thought we might beat enveloped the sky above us. But it didn’t matter, we had enjoyed a great day, and it wasn’t yet raining so the roof was still down.

Wales

If this place were home
As summer fades (Part 1)
The Llyn Peninsula
Wales
Driving the open road

Faith & Religion09 Apr 2008 09:50 pm

There will be more than a few people rubbing there hands with glee today as details emerge of an eight year adulterous affair involving a Christian fundamentalist ‘Bishop’ who, it would seem, was fundamentally flawed.

Hardline Christian fundamentalist, Michael Reid, 64, has quit his various roles as church, school and moral leader after it emerged that the outspoken ‘Bishop of England’ has been involved in an adulterous affair with the music director of his church based in Brentwood, England.

Apparently the ‘Bishop’ and married mother-of-two Sheila Graziano, 49, have been ‘making sweet music’ together for some eight years, and news of the affair only came to light when Bishop Reid’s wife of 36 years allegedly caught the couple in the families £600,000 ($1.2m) home.

The hypocrisy of Michael Reid and Sheila Graziano is obvious. In his role as Bishop of England, and leader of the Christian Congress for Traditional Values (CCTV), Reid has been happy to stir anger with provocative comments such as describing gay people as “filthy perverts,” and more recently a billboard that read “Gay Aim: Abolish the family.”

Graziano, serving as music director at the Peniel Church, has clearly shared those views. Back in 2006 she commented on a Daily Mail story about Pope Benedict’s urging Anglicans to oppose any moves to legalise “weak and deviant” unions (gay marriage).

“I believe that the only rightful sexual relationship is between a man and woman in a monogamous marriage. We need more Church leaders who are not afraid to stand up and be a voice for God’s principles.” Wrote Graziano.

This story positively oozes the kind of sleaze and hypocrisy that the media love to run with. The cliche of the Bishop ‘bonking’ the organist is irresistibly juicy ‘news’, and with Reid making a swift escape (with his wife) to Arizona my suspicions are that more lurid and unpleasant sensations surrounding the Bishop may yet come to light.

MEN OF GOD

This is, of course, nothing new. So called ‘men of God’ have been falling from grace for as long as it’s been possible to do so. But there’s an underlying issue here that I find more troubling than tabloid gossip that ordinarily surrounds a revelation like this, and that is the apparent lack of control and accountability these men are subject to. Apart from God in heaven, who do these men answer to? Who advises them and brings them to book should the need arise?

By all accounts Bishop Reid did not take kindly to any sort of criticism, a trait that seems uncomfortably common among Pentecostal church leaders. A quick Google will reveal some truly awful stories about Michael Reid and the way he has dealt with people who have questioned his leadership over the years. But if the congregation aren’t allowed to question the leadership then doesn’t that make the church a cult, or at least so close to a cult as to be indistinguishable?

When the CCTV, headed by ‘Bishop’ Reid, put out their infamous “Gay aim” billboard earlier this year, I checked their website to see who else was in a position of influence within the organisation. Kensington Temple’s, Pastor Colin Dye, was named as ‘co-founder’ of the group so I decided to email the Revd Dye and ask him if perhaps it would be wise to reign in the Bishop who was clearly prone to unpleasant and unnecessarily confrontational outbursts. (You can read that email in the comments here.)

His first response seemed somewhat defensive. However, in a telephone conversation with me this afternoon, Revd Colin Dye was keen to put as much distance between himself and the ‘Bishop’ as possible.

“I’d not heard or participated in the CCTV for quite some time, knew nothing about this poster, and the point is that he [Michael Reid] wouldn’t necessarily go and involve people in the committee meeting and say this is what we want to do and have you got any ideas. He would just sort of act independently on that.” Claimed Pastor Dye.

“I haven’t had a conversation with him in ages, and I had no idea he was putting posters out in the name of CCTV.” He continued.

Dye went on to tell me that he himself resigned from the CCTV this morning on learning the news of Reid’s affair. Even if his words could be viewed with a degree of skepticism given the obvious desire to not be associated with ‘Bishop’ Reid at this time, Dye’s comments do rather suggest that the church, particularly the Pentecostal church, is open to a lot of abuse from rogue leaders.

ACCOUNTABILITY

I’ve personally come across one such abuse. A relatively high profile Pastor of a local church has for years enjoyed an unchallenged place at the top of a church he created. As part of the Elim Pentecostal group, this particular pastor has often times been embroiled in unpleasant dealings with those who have dared question his authority, methods or practices. Like other rogue leaders he surrounds himself with weaker people who are only likely to ‘toe the line’ or face certain replacement just as those who have questioned him in the past have been.

“We discovered by bitter experience that the Elim organisation has protective mechanisms in place for the leaders (shepherds) but nothing for the sheep. It is assumed that the shepherd must always be right.” One former member told me. They took a complaint about the pastor through Elim channels and were “given the brush-off at this the highest level in Elim.”

With the severity of their accusations about the pastor in mind I asked them why they had chosen to not seek justice through the courts, especially given the apparent presence of a compelling dossier of evidence against him.

“One major problem about bringing the whole unsavory situation into the public arena is that God’s Kingdom would suffer disgrace.” I was told.

While I understand that, I can’t help but feel that such an attitude is merely cowardice disguised as deference to God, and that in choosing to “leave it at the cross” Christians are, in some part at least, responsible for the continued damage that abusive, dishonest and hypocritical leaders will do.

In effect, what I’m saying is that the Christian community as a whole brings itself into disrepute by its willingness to ignore or allow the behavior of rogue leaders to go unchecked and unpunished.

I would suggest that in this recent scandal surrounding ‘Bishop’ Michael Reid, there were no shortage of signs that the man had gone off the rails, or at the very least had stepped outside the bounds of creating a constructive challenge to the public at large.

His hateful tirades set him up for this spectacular fall and while the fingers of blame are pointing squarely in his direction at this time, I feel that the Christian community as a whole should perhaps embark on some self examination of the way in which they let this ‘Bishop’ spin so spectacularly out of control.

High profile church leader quits after affair
Family Values campaigner resigns after admitting adultery
Moral and family values ‘Bishop’ resigns over affair
Bad ‘Bishop’ resigns from CCTV
Moral ‘Bishop’ resigns after affair is unearthed
Forum discuss the multitude of sins of the ‘Bishop’
Are you offended?
Michael Reid Miseries
Falwell from grace
[Audio] BBC Radio 4 report the Bishop sex scandal story

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