So, I’m in India! It was something of a last minute thing. My friend Joelle is currently living for a little while in Tamil Nadu and she invited me to go stay with her and her friend Laxman, a Dutch national who spends most of his time in India. So, here I am!
So far my experience here in India has been very different to my last trip here. Joelle and Laxman life an ‘off-the-grid’ existence outside of a town called Tiruvannamalai which lies at the foot of a so-called holy mountain that seems to be home to tons of temples and spiritual gurus. Everywhere you go there are pictures of a guru called Ramana. He’s dead now, but evidently he was something of a big shot in the world of guruness (is that even a word?).
It’s hot here and, of course, there is no air conditioning. I’m sleeping in the house of one of Laxman’s neighbors in a bedroom which has large windows with no glass. There is a working light-bulb and even a shower in an outside shower-room. Cooking is done using a solar cooker or a gas stove, and water is pumped to the house and Laxman’s house is powered by a large battery which is charged via a solar panel. It might not be everyones cup of tea, but what it lacks in amenities is more than made up for by the hospitality of my hosts.
Despite having been to India before it’s still something of a culture shock to come here. The roads are packed with mopeds, cows, buses, auto-rickshaws, bicycles, trucks, and the occasional car. Anything with a horn is invariably sounding it and attempting to overtake someone else in a maneuver that would have them arrested and banned from driving back if they tried the same thing back in the UK. Beside the road are food stands, shacks, temples, and shops and the closer you get the the city the crazier it all gets.
This is no glossy brochure tourist trip, it’s India like India is. The meals we’ve eaten in what I will only loosely call restaurants, have all been served on banana leaves in smoke filled rooms that I wouldn’t be happy to keep my bike in back home, but this is adventure territory and I’m up for that.
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About Tiruvannamalai
May first trip to India (Part 1)
My first trip to India (Part 2)
[Map] Where in the world is Tiruvannamalai
Wrote the following comment on Apr 23, 2008 at 4:05 pm
Wow, what an adventure! It sounds like good times.
Wrote the following comment on Apr 23, 2008 at 4:43 pm
Windows are for quitters. Hope it doesn’t rain though. ;-)
Wrote the following comment on Apr 23, 2008 at 4:45 pm
I havent been to india in awhile… these pics make me want to go back- or to any third world country for that matter.
Looks wonderful, the scenary looks amazing. i’m sure you’ll have an amazing time.
Wrote the following comment on Apr 23, 2008 at 5:16 pm
but matt i thought you were a PC guy? :-D
Wrote the following comment on Apr 23, 2008 at 5:24 pm
I used to work with a guy from Tamil Nadu. Wish I were there.
Wrote the following comment on Apr 24, 2008 at 3:15 am
So. Jealous.
Wrote the following comment on Apr 24, 2008 at 5:45 am
LOL!!! Metro Simon living in the elements!! LOL
Wrote the following comment on Apr 24, 2008 at 6:35 am
Wow!
I was there in a town called Tirupatti …or something to that effect back in ’87. I wonder if the name changes of recent years in India means the town you are in …is the same town I was in? Not sure though. But I do remember the holy mountain and all those bald beggers who had sacrificed their hair to Ramana on the Mountain during a pilgrimage!
It doesn’t sound like its changed much. The traffic was as crazy then! Do the blokes all wear those tight poly/rayon suit bell-bottom pants still? :) That used to make me laugh.
We slept on the traditional Indian string beds which were very short and low. The guys in our group were all over 6ft so they found it less than comfy :)
India grabs you. It’s a mysterious and intriguing place that’s for sure!
Have a lovely time Simon
Wrote the following comment on Apr 24, 2008 at 2:39 pm
Oh boy, you’re brave Simon. If I went on vacation I wouldn’t be going “off the grid” at all! Each to their own I guess. Have fun.
Wrote the following comment on Apr 25, 2008 at 12:36 am
After experiencing traffic in India first hand, I finally understood why many Indians in the US are considered horrible drivers. They’ve learned how to honk the horn and avoid cows but not how to stay between the lines!
Wrote the following comment on Apr 25, 2008 at 2:46 pm
I was hoping you’d blog while out in India and I see I am not disappointed! I’m sure you’ll come back with loads of stories to tell. How’re the cornflakes? Give my love to Joelle, and let me know if you learn any useful Klingon ;-)
Wrote the following comment on Apr 26, 2008 at 3:57 am
I’m sure if you had a southern accent, and could swear you were going to have “the vapors” the concierge at the local Hilton could find you a room; with a veranda view and waiters that keep you in mint juleps.
Okay, I jest. But there’s roughin’ it, and then there’s ROUGHIN’ it – I think you have totally proven you are capable of REALLY ROUGHIN’ it. But I knew that already from your Katrina Volunteer days.
You haven’t mentioned tea – doesn’t the best tea come from India?
Wrote the following comment on Apr 26, 2008 at 12:55 pm
They drink “Chi tea” (not sure how you spell that) here. It’s tea, but CRAZY sweet, and in this heat the last thing I was is a hot small glass of mad sweet tea. I asked if I should bring tea bags, and I wish now I had :-)
Wrote the following comment on Apr 26, 2008 at 5:23 pm
You are an adventurer. And what an amazing friend you have! Kudos to you both!
Wrote the following comment on Apr 27, 2008 at 2:52 pm
India isn’t a third world country Rachel. I know it might look like it, but it’s a rich and powerful nation who are growing more rich and more powerful each passing day. I feel I should point that out.
As for being off the grid, you can’t be that off the grid if you’re able to post to your blog Simon! Are you cheating? ;)
Wrote the following comment on Apr 27, 2008 at 3:03 pm
Sounds like a good start to a new adventure…
i wonder if your in the very place CJ would disappear to on one of his spiritual holidays???
have fun!
Wrote the following comment on Apr 28, 2008 at 7:49 pm
well, if your objection is to my use of the word, and you feel its an outdated word that shouldnt be used on any country- then thats fine. Although India was one of the original countries put into the third world catagory during the cold war and i understand that there are people who get up in arms over this term being used today… I am obviously not one of those people but i can respect that you are.
if your objection though is that you find India to be drastically different from the countries it was originally grouped with, i’d have to differ with you. I’ll agree that their economy is moving upward, but they still have high levels of poverty, malnutrition, and illiteracy- the quality of living is still very very poor for the average Indian.
I really dont feel like arguing on this one… so i’m going to leave it at that.