LONG WAY HOME – THE COOK ISLANDS
I’ve often looked at pictures in magazines of people strolling along white beaches beside impossibly turquoise water under a perfect blue sky and wondered, with somewhat envious eyes, if I might ever get to see a place like that. I suspected that such places only existed in the enhanced world or travel brochures and torturous office calenders. I now know that not to be the case, because I have been to one such place. I’ve been to paradise, and it was just somewhere along the path I’m taking on my long way home.
After a night flight from Los Angeles it’s still dark when my plane lands at Rarotonga airport in the Cook Islands. Any sleep I might have gotten was insignificant in terms of rest, but as I peer out of the small airplane window I can make out the silhouettes of palm trees on the backdrop of a Polynesian dawn and my excitement extinguishes any tiredness I might have had.
As we walk down the steps of the plane, like touring rock stars from the 1970’s, a singing man greets us. It’s not screaming fans or even ladies with those flowers to put around your neck, but nonetheless when compared to the usual snarling immigration officer, this is easily the warmest welcome to a country I’ve ever had.
With my onward flight to Aitutaki was not leaving until later that afternoon I decided to leave the tiny airport and take the short walk to the Aquarius hotel for breakfast. Once there I discover that the owner, Cameron, comes from the same place in the UK where I live. He’s a friendly guy, chatting and offering me cups of tea. Our geographic familiarity might have contributed to Cameron’s friendly and generous nature as he allowed me to use the hotels facilities to freshen up, though something tells me that such generosity isn’t all that uncommon in these parts anyway.
Oddly enough my first task after breakfast was to walk to the local police station to take my driving test and obtain a license that would enable me to rent a scooter while I was in the Cook Islands. The test consisted of riding a scooter around the block with a policeman following close behind on a motorcycle. “I’m pleased to tell you that you passed.” He tells me as we circle back to the police station, and as I pay my $25 (NZD) for the plastic license I wonder if anyone has ever failed.
I spent the rest of my time in “Raro” riding the scooter through the rain that had unexpectedly descended on the island like bank robbers in a morning heist. I didn’t see much of anything really, a few beaches here and there, but mainly the shelter of a bus stop that protected me from the rain.
A fellow traveler had referred to Rarotonga as “Rainytonga” and it was living up to that name. “Aitutaki is different. I promise it won’t disappoint you.” He said, and as I sat in that little bus shelter soaked to the skin I hoped he would be right in that regard too.
PARADISE FOUND
On my arrival in Aitutaki I had to hitch a ride on the back of a pickup truck. I was supposed to have been collected but there was some kind of mixup with the arrival time, but this was no big deal and in fact only seemed to add to the relaxed pace that was already clearly a way of life here. I held the packages and the pickup driver took me to right to the door of where I was supposed to be, and even helped me with my luggage!
I set my bags down, then looked around. “Slow down sweet freind” read a nearby pained road sign. The misspelling obviously hadn’t worried anyone but either way I was happy to take the advice. Slow down indeed, I thought to myself. That’s exactly what I planned to do.
Aitutaki sits on a breathtaking turquoise coral reef lagoon made up of 14 mostly uninhabited islets that are surrounded by beautiful palm-fringed white beaches. It is no exaggeration to describe the place as a paradise that is largely unspoiled and as yet undiscovered by the sun seeking masses. It’s a quiet and unpretentious place where the locals smile and wave at you as they pass on the street.
I spent my first night in the Amuri Guest House run by a friendly local couple and popular with backpackers. Following that I stayed in a treehouse on Matriki Beach. To wake up to the sound of waves and be able to just walk right out onto the beach from my treehouse was just pure bliss.
While I suspect some visitors to Aitutaki probably don’t stray far from the beach, I just had to explore. I trekked across the main island on my rented moped which I nearly crashed horribly while foolishly trying to climb to the highest point on the island on a track of lose coral rock and sand. Not wishing to meet my death in paradise I decided to park the bike and walk to the peak where I sat and watched the sun set.
On another day I ventured into the jungle like forest. Locals had assured me that there are no creatures in Aitutaki that can harm a human more than the occasional mosquito bite.
Snorkeling in the lagoon is a must. I took a lagoon cruise on “the yellow boat” which stops to allow guests to snorkel and explore the reef. It was just awesome swimming around with fish that I’ve only ever seen in tropical marine tanks. I even found myself face to face with a scary looking Moray Eel!
I rented a kayak and ventured out onto the lagoon to explore some of the uninhabited little islets. This was just magical, if a little hard work. I made my way from island to island and didn’t see another soul for the entire time. Each islet I went to was beautiful but completely deserted. I suspect this is why they were chosen as locations for the TV shows Shipwrecked and Survivor.
A few times I felt like pinching myself because I could hardly believe that places like this were real. The colors were so rich and vibrant and the beaches so perfect and unspoiled that everywhere looked like the picture of paradise.
I met a whole host of travelers on the island ranging from backpackers to honeymooners, marine photographers to a family who had left their jobs and lives behind them to travel the world! Every moment and every turning was a picture postcard. I took a staggering amount of photographs, but often would simply just stand still and soak in the beauty.
I could have happily stayed in the beach treehouse and enjoyed the serene pace of Aitutaki for much longer. What little rain there was would simply glide over the island in minutes, it was perfect from start to finish, and while I might have only spent just four days there, those four days were simply unforgettable.
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Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 5:11 am
Matey, that looks amazing, who would have thought 10 years ago that you’d be in the Cook Islands?
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 5:48 am
Simon, you have the most wondrous adventures. And those pictures capture paradise, I swear!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 11:20 am
Right. That’s it. You’ve done it now.
A few weeks ago I watched that movie you told me about (“the bucket list”) – and as usual it was a great recommendation. After watching the movie I decided I’d start a “bucket list” of my own (things to do before you “kick the bucket”). Like a lot of these sort of ideas it remained nothing more than a fleeting whim, proceeded with the words “You know, I really must..” and quickly buried by other words like “first I’ll make a cup of tea” which usually leads to “I’ll just check my email.”
ANYWAY, the point is, having read this post I’ve now started a bucket list, and item number one is “visit the cook islands.. for a really long time”.
Right. I’m off to make a cup of tea.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 11:24 am
You think those views are amazing. You should see the view from my from door at home!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 2:55 pm
yeah, looks just like Birkenhead Park :-)
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 7:34 pm
Dude, looks amazing. Happy New Year btw…I’ll give you a shout when you get back fella.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 9:12 pm
As always utterly beautiful and so fun to “travel with you.” Wonderful pictures, my favorite was the last large picture, the variety of colors is breathtaking!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 9:16 pm
Breathtaking! Just breathtaking.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 4, 2009 at 10:42 pm
Gorgeous, Simon. Absolutely stunning.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 5, 2009 at 11:14 am
How gorgeous these photos are!! As you’ve said, the colours are so rich and vibrant it’s hard to believe they’re real. I can see how much you’re enjoying this travel, and thanks for taking us along!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 6, 2009 at 3:28 am
Unbelievable pictures! The treehouse looks fun, and right there on the beach too. These pictures leaving me feeling a little fed up to be back at work after the christmas break.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 8, 2009 at 10:14 pm
Sorry I’m not on this trip with you!
Was a hard choice, but Ireland wasn’t bad either, hot toddies, icy canals and smokey chimneys… ;-)
Actually, I’m only saying that because I know what you look like under a palm tree, and it reminds me of your relaxing under Indian palm trees when you came over. I’m glad you had such a wonderful time.
I liked the Bucket List too, watched it in the jungle house.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 8, 2009 at 11:27 pm
I am looking at these pictures with envious eyes my friend.
Happy travels.
Wrote the following comment on Jan 11, 2009 at 1:21 pm
Happy Birthday!!! Hope you have a wonderful day!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 12, 2009 at 2:35 am
Simon, we’ve just got our first opportunity – amidst our travels – to spend a bit of time on the web and we wanted to follow up with our promise to check-out your blog and exchange ours with you! Your pictures are beautiful and your descriptions are “brilliant!” (That’s our favorite word we learned from you.) Thanks for letting us enjoy the world from your perspective! Check-in on our travels at estebexplorations.blogspot.com – You’re mentioned under the “Friendly Blessings” post. -Cheers, The Estebs
Wrote the following comment on Jan 13, 2009 at 5:37 pm
That’s heaven!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 13, 2009 at 6:34 pm
Does anyone else think this is perfect for simon https://www.islandreefjob.com
Wrote the following comment on Jan 13, 2009 at 9:31 pm
Yes, Perfet!
Wrote the following comment on Jan 14, 2009 at 7:45 am
Actually, that probably involves too much work.
Word on the street is that the previous reef employee is now a web designer ;-)
Wrote the following comment on Jan 14, 2009 at 8:59 am
Come on Pete, its only 12 hours a month, even Simon could manage that :-) Although if he is required to get up before lunchtime, that may be a deal breaker.
My video application is nearly done, just working on the accompanying website :-)
Wrote the following comment on Jan 14, 2009 at 9:13 am
12 hours a month!? My god they want blood!
Wrote the following comment on Feb 12, 2009 at 5:46 am
It really is like that – I have just spent a week on Rarotonga and will be back there for a second look next week. Awesome place and, believe it or not, the photographs do not do it justice.